Bay-of-Islands / Kerikeri

The Bay of Islands covers the area from Cape Brett to the Purerua Peninsula, encompassing both coastal and inland towns such as Paihia, Russell, Rawhiti, Waitangi/Te Tii, Opua, Haruru Falls, Kerikeri, Waipapa and Waimate North, among others.

The unbelievable natural beauty, amazing beaches and a host of islands are an idyllic aquatic playground and ultimate retreat for our visitors. But the Bay of Islands is home to many very lucky people.

Infused in both Maori and European history, the Bay of Islands is considered to be the birthplace of New Zealand as a bi-cultural nation, and is now home to many diverse cultures and people. Although steeped in history like most other Far North areas, it is a great place to see how Maori culture and lifestyle have adapted to modern times.

Many people come to the Bay of Islands with marlin in mind. Zane Grey, an American novelist and big game fisherman, pitched a tent and caught his first marlin here in 1926. He made sure the world heard about it! Today enthusiasts come from all over the globe in pursuit of marlin, broadbill and shark.

Maori occupied the Bay of Islands from as early as the 10th century, garden sites documented by archaeologists at Urimatao, on Moturua Island, are evidence of their occupation. The Te Awa people from Dargaville area followed the earlier Maori, their two known pa at Rawhiti and Manawaora, are modelled exactly on their original Dargaville sites.

The Ngare Raumati people arrived in the later 15th century from the Bay of Plenty, they occupied the Bay of Islands for three hundred years.

During the 17th century, the Nga Manu people and descendants of Waipihangarangi were given Kororareka Peninsula from Te Wahapu to Tapeka as utu (payment for the killing of one of their chiefs). The chief at this time was Tupare, whose pa, Te Ke Emua, was on the hill behind the present-day landmark of Pompallier. He was forced to relinquish both his lands and his daughter following the killing of the Nga Manu chief, Waipahihi.

Early in the 19th century, the Ngapuhi chiefs from the Kerikeri and Waimate areas defeated Ngare Raumati and when the Nga Manu (now known as the Ngati Manu) left and established themselves further inland, the Ngapuhi people remained and settled in the Kororareka area.

Kororareka was one of many small settlements in the Bay of Islands. It was to change and develop dramatically as a result of contact with European arrivals.

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Paihia

With its three sandy beaches sheltered by rocky islets, Paihia has been a popular holiday destination for over a hundred years.

Missionaries were the first Europeans to settle Paihia in 1823. Led by Rev. Henry Williams they built a house, a store and the first church in New Zealand, which was constructed in the traditional Maori way using raupo. Williams gained the respect and trust of the local Maori people, trying to understand their ways and to eliminate friction between Maori and Pakeha. Henry Williams’ brother William joined the mission and compiled a Maori / English dictionary.

In commemoration of this early history, the New Zealand Historic Places Trust set up a number of plaques along Paihia’s waterfront.

Today Paihia’s main industry is tourism. The Paihia wharf is the base for scenic cruises, sea excursions and deep-sea fishing. There are plenty of recreational activities in the blue-green world of the Bay of Islands especially during the summer. Many residents work in the adventure and recreational fields running yacht or launch charters, dive, snorkel and sea kayak experiences.

Paihia is known as the jewel of the magnificent Bay of Islands. With shimmering safe waters and superb beaches it is easy to understand why so many people choose to make it their home.

Paihia is the place of friendly locals, trendy cafés and people enjoying life, with hundreds of businesses including restaurants, local arts, crafts and tourism operators. The population soars over the summer months and whether it is swimming with dolphins, taking in a spot of retail therapy or just lazing under a tree, Paihia is the place for it.

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Waitangi

Truly one of New Zealand’s most historic sites, where both Maori and European joined to sign the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. The Treaty House is located amongst a peaceful estate which includes a fully carved Maori meeting house, one of the largest Maori war canoes (Ngatoki Matawhaorua) and a visitor centre and gallery, the mangrove forest, the Waitangi golf course, abundant native bird life, heritage trees and wonderful bay views.

The Waitangi Treaty Grounds offer a unique and fascinating insight into New Zealand’s historic past. New Zealand’s most significant document, The Treaty of Waitangi first signed here in 1840 between Maori Chiefs and the British Crown became the basis for life in New Zealand as we know it today.

The Waitangi National Trust estate comprises 506 hectares and the public has access to this important historic site. The estate was gifted to the people of New Zealand in 1932 by Lord and Lady Bledisloe. Lord Bledisloe was Governor-General of New Zealand at the time. A Deed of Trust established the estate as a National Reserve. The Waitangi National Trust Board was established the same year. Board members included descendants of the donors and those who signed the Treaty, representatives of the North and South Island people and other prominent New Zealanders. The board continues to be made up of descendants and representatives of people directly associated with this historic site and the encumbrant Governor General.

To commemorate the gift to the nation, Sir Apirana Ngata and Tau Henare, built a carved Maori meeting house on the Treaty Grounds which was presented to the people of New Zealand on 6 February 1940 on the occasion of the centenary of the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi.

The centenary was also celebrated with the launch of the waka taua Ngatoki Matawhaorua. The building of the waka was inspired by Te Puea Herangi of Waikato. Housed at Hobson Beach Ngatoki Matawhaorua is one of the largest ceremonial waka (canoe) in the world. Ngatoki Matawhaorua partakes in each Waitangi Day celebration, requiring a minimum of 76 paddlers to handle it safely on the water.

The Treaty House, the Whare Runanga and Ngatoki Matawhaorua are now the key taonga (treasures) of the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, along with the natural beauty of the Waitangi National Trust estate.

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Russell

A quick ferry ride across the water from Paihia is the charming, elegant township of Russell once the shore leave destination for sailors, whalers and traders during the 19th century. Today Russell is still a favoured spot for boaties who seek safe anchorage.

Russell was an established settlement of various Maori tribes, prior to Captain Cook’s arrival. The name at that time, Kororareka, reflected a legend that a wounded chief asked for penguin and on tasting the broth said “Kareka to korora.” (How sweet is the penguin.)

From the early 1800s, whalers found Kororareka ideal as a provisioning port. The town grew in response, gaining a reputation as a lawless and bawdy port, and earning the nickname “Hell Hole of the Pacific”. The image has changed but Russell is still a provisioning base for pleasure crafts cruising the Bay of Islands and the South Pacific.

The town continued to expand until the country’s first capital at Okiato (formerly Old Russell) moved to Auckland, then the old capital’s economy declined as a result. The situation was made worse by the sacking of the town in 1845 by Hone Heke and Kawiti, two powerful Maori chiefs.

Kororareka, now known as Russell, was gradually rebuilt finding its main source of income in the provisioning and refitting of whaling ships. Later manganese mining, fish canning and coal brought quiet prosperity to the area.

From the early 1900s Russell became known as a quiet historic town. Other attractions that brought visitors were the annual regatta and the development of big game fishing, with enthusiasm by the American writer, Zane Grey.

Rather than the whaling industry, today's population is engaged in tourism, fishing, oyster farming and cottage industries.

Historic buildings include the Catholic Mission “Pompallier” which is made from rammed earth and Christ Church, which still carries the bullet holes from the Maori Wars. Russell offers a fascinating museum, cafés, restaurants and some amazing colonial homes, many of which are now operating as visitor accommodation.

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Opua

Opua is the main port in the Far North and is recognized as one of New Zealand’s most popular Ports of Entry for blue water cruising yachts from around the world.

With its 240 berth marina, friendly yacht club, boat haul-out yards and extensive marine services, Opua is a delightful safe-haven for any sailor. It is also where the Opua-Okiato vehicle ferry terminal is located.

Today the main users of the wharf are the local fishing and charter industries. However, occasionally a cruise ship visiting the Bay of Islands will tie up and dwarf the small settlement.

A railway to Kawakawa was completed in 1884, and the wharf at Opua prospered with the coal-mining at Kawakawa and later the meat and milk powder industries at Moerewa. With the decline of these industries the use of the port as an export terminal slowly diminished.

However Opua is now being progressively redeveloped by Far North Holdings Ltd as the premier maritime servicing centre for the Northland region.

Waimate North

Not a lot of development has occurred in the Waimate North area since the early 1800s. Made up of mainly dairy and dry stock farms the quiet rural settlement is very significant in the Far North’s history. Waimate North was the fourth Mission Station established in New Zealand, and the first attempted settlement away from the coast. Very recently Waimate North has flourished with lifestyle blocks. A beautiful place to live Waimate North is discreet and private.

In 1830 Reverend Samuel Marsden, founder of Anglican missions in New Zealand and Church Missionary Society (C.M.S.) stations on the coast at Rangihoua (1815), Kerikeri (1819), and Paihia (1823), was determined to establish an inland station in the Waimate area as it was suitable for an agricultural settlement. It was Marsden’s intention to teach Maori, European agricultural practices and other aspects of European culture along with the Christian religion. Waimate seemed an ideal spot for a mission farm where the Maori could be taught English rural crafts. It was the centre of a large Maori population, which the missionaries had been visiting throughout the 1820s and it was the place where the great Ngapuhi chief Hongi Hika, who died in 1828, had his principal cultivations.

1035 acres was purchased at Waimate, the chosen site mission and in 1830 a road was built between Kerikeri and Waimate including a bridge spanning 64 feet across the Waitangi River.

Waimate North’s rich soil and vast landscape is still one of the finest areas for agricultural developments. Also rich in history is the Waimate Mission House (“The Old Vicarage”), the second oldest house still standing in New Zealand; only Kemp House in Kerikeri is older.

Haruru Falls

Haruru Falls is a small residential settlement, about three kilometres inland from its larger neighbour, Paihia.

The waterfall is in a horseshoe shape – very rare and quite spectacular. Maori legend has it that a taniwha (water monster) lives in the lagoon below. Haruru Falls was New Zealand’s first river port and an aramoana (sea road or ocean path) for the inland Maori tribes serviced nine kaianga (villages) between Haruru and Waitangi. Missionaries reported seeing 60 to 100 canoes pulled up on the mud banks.

A double-storey hotel known as The Northampton Castle was built near the Falls in 1828 but remained idle until, in 1856, Louis C Goffe purchased it and established a trading business and licensed premises. He acquired a “Traveller’s Licence” which allowed “irregular” drinking hours – a service welcomed by ferrymen, sailors and visitors who came and went with the tides not the clock. In 1870 a cottage was erected and used as an annex for night arrivals, this became known as Ferryman’s Cottage. Today, this establishment is known as Twin Pines Tourist Park boasting a restaurant and boutique brewery.

A scenic drive and popular public walking track has been established between Haruru Falls and Waitangi encompassing the Waitangi golf course and National Trust grounds.